How To Care For Your Wool Carpet
Your choice of wool carpet from Unique Carpets, Ltd. is an investment in beauty, practicality, and ease of maintenance. Ensure your wool carpet will last longer and look better by following the three basic rules of carpet maintenance:
- Vacuum regularly.
- Remove spills immediately.
- Professionally clean as required (usually no more than once every year or two).
The most important maintenance step is proper vacuuming. Regular and thorough vacuuming at least once a week and more often in heavy traffic areas will remove soil and dirt particles before they become imbedded into the pile of the carpet. An upright Vacuum cleaner with rotating beater bar and brush or canister type with a power head are the most efficient cleaners. The head of the vacuum cleaner should be adjusted so that the brushes barely touch the surface of the carpet. The easiest way to do this is to place a sheet of paper under the vacuum and adjust it until you hear the beater bar hitting the paper.
DO NOT use a self-adjusting vacuum since they adjust too deeply into the pile and will cause excessive fuzzing.
DO NOT use an overly stiff brush on the beater bar since this too will cause excessive fuzzing.
DO NOT use any vacuum made by Oreck or Dyson as these will cause excessive fuzzing.
No claims will be accepted when an Oreck or Dyson vacuum is used.
It is important to remember to move the vacuum cleaner slowly to allow time to remove soil, and above all, make sure that the dust bag is never more than half full. Remember you cannot over vacuum, and vacuuming should begin the day the carpet is installed.
Spot and Spill Removal
The following information provided by Wools of New Zealand www.woolsnz.com
One of the most crucial areas of carpet maintenance is the removal of spots and spills. Acting quickly when anything is dropped or spilled and always having the necessary cleaning materials on hand are of the utmost importance.
Steps for successful spot removal
- Blot spills with white paper towels or clean absorbent cloth. Scoop solids with knife or spoon.
- Pretest spot-removal materials in an inconspicuous area.
- Apply cleaning agent to an absorbent towel, not the carpet, and blot
- Do not over-wet the carpet.
- Work inward from the edge of the spot to prevent excessive spreading
- Rinse by applying clear, tepid water using a clean cloth. Again, work from the edge to the center. Do not rub and do not over-wet.
- Remove excess moisture by applying pressure with paper towels or absorbent cloth.
- To dry: apply a ½” thick layer of paper towels over the wet areas and weigh them down. Change as the towels become wet. Brush the pile with your fingers to restore the texture after the area has dried.
If you’ve taken care to vacuum your carpet as recommended, you may not need to clean your carpet for several years. However, when the carpet does start to look soiled, we would strongly recommend having it professionally cleaned by the dry foam, dry extraction, or spray extraction methods.
Aerosol Foam Shampoo: For light cleaning of small areas, aerosol foam shampoos can be used. The foam is to be sprayed sparingly (to avoid leaving an easily re-soiled residue) directly onto the carpet and worked into the pile with a moistened sponge or brush. After the carpet is dry, which generally takes less time than with liquid shampoos, the carpet is vacuumed.
Dry Extraction (Absorbent Powder): There are several cleaning agents available whose absorbent particles contain moisture, detergent, and solvents. After vacuuming, the powder is sprinkled liberally on the carpet, brushed into the pile, and then vacuumed out. Because the carpet is never wet during this process, there is no down time and the room is ready to use immediately. Any absorbent powder remaining after vacuuming will continue to absorb soil and can be removed in subsequent vacuuming, so there is no concern over residue causing quick re-soiling.
Spray Extraction Cleaning: With the spray extraction method, often incorrectly referred to as steam cleaning, the carpet is injected with a warm water and detergent solution under pressure so that the soil is suspended in the water and extracted almost immediately by a high-suction wet-vacuum system. This method is particularly useful for very dirty carpets because it removes deep-seated soil. Although spray extraction equipment can be rented, it is strongly recommend that this type of cleaning be done only by a trained professional since care must be taken not to over apply the cleanser or over-wet the carpet.
How To Care For Your Sisal and Seagrass Carpet
Sisal and seagrass are relatively easy to maintain. The hard, natural vegetable fibers do not attract dust, and bacteria cannot penetrate the fibers. Sand and fine dirt do not damage sisal or seagrass carpets as they do conventional floor coverings; the soil filters through the weave, rather than sits on the surface. Both sisal and seagrass are tough, natural fibers which are less vulnerable to abrasion.
As with other yarns made of vegetable fibers, both sisal and seagrass have variations in size, shade, and tendency to return to their original color after exposure to sunlight. Slight weaving and shade irregularity are common characteristics. Shade differences between areas exposed/unexposed to sunlight may be apparent (underneath furniture, behind picture hangings, etc.). Fading due to direct exposure to sunlight is uniform, resembling the tones of unfinished wood.
Regular vacuuming with a strong brush-suction is all that is needed for daily care of sisal and seagrass carpets. The beater-type cleaner is not as effective due to the weave. The strong suction of the vacuum pulls out the fine dirt which has accumulated between the fibers and on the underlay. Although the need may not be visible, this frequent and regular vacuuming will increase carpet life by preventing soil build-up, and will help eliminate stains caused when spilled liquids dissolve soil accumulations.
If exposed to dryness or low humidity, a frequent, light and even application of water strengthens these natural vegetable fibers and enhances the wearing qualities. Moisture can be applied by spraying, light sprinkling, clean mop, damp brush, or any device that would give a light and even application of clean water. This dampening can also help eliminate minor bubbling and looseness, as both carpets will tighten up slightly as they dry. Sisal carpets dry quickly. Under no conditions should the carpet be saturated, or undesirable dimensional changes could result, as well as possible staining from dyes in the underlay. Care should be taken that the carpets are vacuumed and clean before applying the moisture, since dirt in the matting might stain if dissolved.
Immediate attention to spills is the most important for spot removal from sisal and seagrass carpets, as it is with most floor covering. The spilled substance should be removed as soon as possible by blotting up with clean, un-dyed paper towels or cloths, or scraped up with a dull knife or nail file. Two methods are recommended for the following substances:
For beer, blood, butter, chocolate, coffee, cola, cream. general dirt, eggs, excreta, fruit, greasy food, ice cream, juice, lipstick, liquor, water-based paint, urine, vomit.
- Mop up the spill immediately with an un-dyed paper towel or clean un-dyed cloth.
- Brush or sponge the discolored area with small amounts of detergent or carpet shampoo and lukewarm water. The cleaner should have a neutral pH factor. Do not saturate. Blot up with un-dyed paper or cloth. Repeat.
- Dry the carpet quickly, as with a hair dryer.
For asphalt, colored chalk, cosmetics, fresh oil, oil-based paint, shoe polish, soot.
- Scrape up cautiously as much of the stain as possible, using a dull knife or nail file. Soot should be vacuumed up.
- Dampen a clean, un-dyed white cloth with a small amount of dry cleaning fluid. Tetra and petroleum solvents may be used. Blot up the stain. Check to see if solvent is dissolving the substance. Work towards the center of the stain and don’t use too much solvent to avoid spreading the stain. Repeat.
- Dry the carpet quickly, as with a hair dryer.
Water and water-based spills: Immediately blot with paper towels then cover with a thick layer of potato flour overnight. Vacuum the next day.
Greasy and oily spots have also been successfully removed from sisal and seagrass with aerosol can spot removers, such as K2R (available in most drug stores). Follow the directions on the container. These contain both a cleaning solvent and absorbing powder.
Beer and wine stains have also been removed with wood alcohol applied with a clean, un-dyed absorbent cloth. For oil-based paint, some use small amounts of turpentine.
With some stains, it may be necessary to experiment on a very small area with water, carpet cleaner, or solvent to determine what will dissolve the substance. With un-dyed, absorbent material remove as much of the loosened soil as possible. Repeat if necessary.
When the above recommended processes do not remove the soil, the services of a good professional cleaner (with a wide range of materials and processes available) is recommended. It is possible for stains such as oil to accumulate in the underlay, which could work through the carpet. In this circumstance, several cleanings may be necessary to remove the soil. If the underlay becomes wet, it should be dried immediately since dissolved dyes in the underlay can stain thecarpet.
Both sisal and seagrass carpets are hygroscopic. That is, they absorb moisture and give off moisture, depending on the relative humidity in their immediate environment. Although humidity is good for natural fiber carpets, saturation of the fibers with water can cause undesirable dimensional change. (See above “Maintenance”.) Therefore, steam-cleaning, wet shampooing, or any other method that involves water saturation of the mattings is NOT recommended! For overall cleaning, spray-extraction method is recommended, using minimum moisture setting on the machine. Here the cleaning liquid is applied by pressure and removed by vacuuming in the same working cycle. Application should be continuous, keeping the application moving to prevent excess moisture in any spot. Note that complete moisture extraction is not possible. The moisture penetrates the fibers and the coarse structure causes the absorption of air. No water marks are visible with this method due to the even application of moisture. If the carpet has been glued down, it should be determined that the adhesive is not water soluble before applying moisture.
Curled rug corners
When sisal and seagrass are used as an area rug, traffic or shuffling of feet across a corner or edge could cause the edge to curl. It is easy to cure this by dampening the curled area, or placing a damp towel over the area and weighting it down evenly overnight. If severely curled it might be necessary to repeat this process.
Responsibility for cleaning and maintenance lies with those performing this work since the manner and conditions of matting cleaning or maintenance, and the cleaning materials used are beyond our control.
INSTALLATION GUIDE FOR WOVEN SISAL AND SEAGRASS FLOORCOVERINGS
Make sure the installation area is climate controlled and remains that way for at least 48 hours after the installation. Humid conditions at the installation site will cause these products to expand or contract prior to the adhesive setting up. These products need to be installed in climate controlled areas only. Natural fibers are dimensionally unstable until the adhesive has time to stabilize the room cuts.
Adhesive should be spread evenly, using a spread rate of approximately 7 square yards per gallon of high quality, multi-purpose adhesive. Use a 1/8” x 1/8” U-notched trowel (minimum size). Getting a good transfer of adhesive is very important. These natural fiber floorcoverings require more adhesive than normal glue down carpets since they react to humid or dry climate conditions to a greater degree. A light coat of adhesive is not a sufficient bond and can break away when the room undergoes a shift in humidity levels.
Install these floorcoverings as you would a hard surface such as resilient vinyl. Cut from the surface of the floorcovering using a straight edge with a slotted razor carpet knife. Change the blades frequently. All the cuts are “net”.
These floorcoverings make good seams, but cross seams may result in a lesser quality. If some cross seams are necessary, make sure they are sealed and placed in non-visible areas. Cross seams need to be minimized, hidden, and sealed.
Tools: 1/8” x 1/8” U-notched trowel, slotted razor knife and blades, straight edge, chalk line.
Adhesive: a premium grade multi-purpose adhesive (low water, quick grabbing).
Surface Prep: Clean, dry, and free of dust, grease, and wax. Concrete floors must be cured and dry. Make sure concrete is free of excess moisture and the cracks are filled. Other surfaces as resilient tile should be checked and patched as needed.
1) Properly measure the area to be installed, add 2 to 3 inches to the dimensions.
2) Dry fit the pre-cut floorcovering into the room, centering the covering so that the surplus will lap against the walls evenly. Make sure there is enough covering to reach the center of thresholds in doorways.
3) Avoid making cross seams. Side seams produce much better results.
4) Trim off factory side edge when seaming. Do not double cut seams.
5) After seams are matched, make sure the pattern is aligned. Seam cuts should be net cuts.
6) Fold the floorcovering back from the seam are to begin the process of applying adhesive. Apply the adhesive by spreading away from the seam line and leave scalloped trowel marks at the seam area.
7) Follow the adhesive label instructions for open time.
8) Begin laying the floorcovering over the adhesive, working away from the seams toward the wall.
9) Secure seams with seam adhesive. With an applicator bottle, apply a bead to the edge in the edge on the backside, not on the face.
10)Trim out the floorcovering by making a crease in the covering. At the wall, trim with the razor knife, changing the blades frequently.
Finishing Up: Do not drag heavy furniture and fixtures over the installed material. Permanent compression tracks may occur.
How To Care For Your Nylon Carpet
There are three key things to do to maintain your new nylon carpet.
- Vacuum frequently.
- Clean spills promptly
- Have carpet professionally cleaned at least every 24 months.
Note: Some fiber producers soil, stain, and wear warranties may be voided without proof of professional cleaning within requested time-frames. Consult your dealer for specific details
Vacuuming thoroughly and frequently is the most important thing you can do to keep your carpet looking great, particularly in high-traffic areas. Vacuuming helps remove dirt particles which dull the carpets appearance. Also, use walk-off mats at entrances to minimize the tracking of dirt particles onto the carpet and to reduce soil accumulation.
Cleaning Your Carpet
Regular professional cleaning and maintenance are needed to keep carpet looking great year after year. During everyday use, soil clings to carpet fibers and dulls the carpet’s beauty. These particles accumulate and compromise the carpet’s ability to resist matting, pile crush, and they compromise the clarity of the original color.
Basic Cleaning Steps: How to clean your carpet after a spill:
- Immediately scoop up as much of the spill as possible. Then blot—do not rub—area with clean white cloths to remove excess moisture. Use a wet/dry vac if spill is large.
- Apply warm—not hot—water and blot with clean white colths. Repeat until no stain is evident on cloth. If stain remains on carpet, make a solution of ¼ (1/4) teaspoon liquid dishwashing detergent to 1 cup warm water. Using a clean white cloth, apply the solution to the stained area and let soak about 5 minutes. Rinse with clear warm water and blot to remove excess moisture. Repeat until all detergent is removed to avoid resoiling.
- Absorb any remaining moisture with layers of white paper towels weighted with a non-staining glass or ceramic object. When carpet is dry, vacuum or brush the pile to restore texture.
Reappearing Stains: After drying, if the stain reappears, it may be because some of the stain remained deep in the pile and wicked up to the surface. If so, repeat step 2.
Non-food and non-beverage stains require special cleaning procedures. The chart below lists common household items that would cause stains if spilled on carpet. Use this chart to identify your stain. Before using, pre-test any cleaning solution on a small, inconspicuous section of carpet for colorfastness. Then follow the cleaning procedures listed for removal of the stain.
BCS refers to "Basic Cleaning Steps" previously mentioned.
- Follow BCS No. 1. Then apply dry cleaning solvent (available at a hardware store or the cleaning aisle of your supermarket). Follow instructions and precautions on container. Then follow BCS No. 2 and No. 3.
- Follow BCS No. 1 and 2. Then apply solution of clear, white, non-suds ammonia (2 tbs. to 1 qt. water). Blot with clean white cloth or paper towels. Repeat BCS No.2. Then BCS No. 3.
- Follow BCS No.1, 2, and 3. Then apply solution of white vinegar (2 tbs. vinegar to 1 qt. water). Blot with clean white cloth or paper towels. Repeat BCS No. 2. Then BCS No. 3.
- Follow BCS No. 1 and 2. Then apply solution of white vinegar (2 tbs. to 1 qt. water) and blot. Next apply solution of clear, white, non-suds ammonia (2 tbs. to 1 qt. water) and blot. Repeat BCS No. 2. Then BCS No. 3.
- Freeze area with ice cubes. Shatter gum with blunt instrument. Vacuum up pieces. Follow BCS No. 3.
- Test non-acetone nail polish remover on an obscure nonvisible section of carpet to see if it removes carpet color. If not, apply remove and blot. Repeat if necessary.
- Follow BCS No. 1, 2, and 3. If stain remains, apply dry cleaning solvent (follow instructions andprecautions on container). Repeat BCS No. 2. Then BCS No. 3.
- Vacuum thoroughly. If needed, follow BCS No. 1 through 3. NOTE: If these procedures do not work, consult a professional carpet cleaner.
Professional Carpet Cleaning
When vacuuming no longer removes all of the soil, or you have not been able to remove stains following the recommended carpet care and cleaning procedures previously reviewed, it’s time to have your carpet cleaned by a trained and qualified professional cleaner. A reputable professional cleaner knows the latest information on carpet construction, carpet care products, and safe, effective cleaning methods to help maintain carpet beauty. For this reason, we recommend professional cleaning at least every 24 months. Again, some fiber producer warranties will be voided if their cleaning recommendations are not met. Lighter carpet shades, combined with the degree of soil build-uo and the amount of traffic in the home, may require a more frequent cleaning schedule than just one professional cleaning every 12 months.
Steam, or hot water extraction, is the recommended method for deep cleaning most carpets. Hot water extraction uses a machine to apply water and a cleaning solution (if necessary) into the carpet pile to attack the soil and greasy build-up on the carpet fibers. A powerful vacuum then extracts the solution almost immediately. Properly performed, hot water extraction will effectively remove accumulated soil from the carpet and refresh the texture of the carpet.
Make sure your professional cleaner knows and follows these guidelines:
- Cleaning Requirements:
- Vacuum thoroughly.
- Use professional cleaning methods with hot water extraction
- Immediate maximum residue removal is critical
- If solvents or pre-spotters are needed, first do a general cleaning and then, if necessary, spot clean.
- Cleaning Solutions:
- pH must be 10 or less
- Must not contain any cationic agent as found in many bactericides, biocides, anti-stats, pesticides, etc.
- Use only enough solution to assure maximum cleaning and minimum residue.
- Topical Treatments:
- Are not required to preserve your carpet
- When applying an after-treatment, use only fluorine-based (water based) products.
- Silicones are not recommended and should not be used.
Carpet Warranty Information
For your convenience, we have included warranty information about some of our carpets.
If you have any additional questions please Contact Us.
- Use a double-blade row cutter, such as a Crain 301 Cushion back cutter, to cut the carpet from the top side. Be careful not to cut through the tufts.
- Use seam sealing adhesive on both edges that are to be butted together.
- Use a six (6”) inch tape on long seams and three (3”) inch on short and doorway seams.
- Prior to seaming, fold the carpet under along the edge on both sides to be seamed to help prevent any peaking of the seams.
- Use a quarter (1/4”) inch thick piece of plywood under the area to be seamed to give solid surface for the tape and seaming iron. This also helps to prevent peaked seams.
- Size 1/4” x 1’ x 4’
- Make a string sled tie at only one end, to allow you to pull the sled without having to disturb the seam or seaming tape.
- Use a flat roller for follow up, NOT a carpet tractor.
Unique recommends the use of underlay in either conventional stretch-in, or double-stick application. We DO NOT recommend direct-glue installation.
For all broadloom installation we recommend bonded urethane (re-bond) pad either 3/8” or 7/16” thick and a minimum of 8 lb. density.
For area rug installation, we recommend our non-slip underlay which can be ordered directly from Unique and cut to fit your exact requirments.
MANUFACTURING DEFECTS WARRANTY
Seller warrants that goods sold will be free from defects in workmanship or materials for one year from date of invoice. Such warranty is in lieu of and excludes all other warranties by Seller, expressed or implied of operation of law or otherwise including without limitation warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. Seller’s liability and Buyers sole remedy for defective goods shall be replacement, repair, or refund of the purchase price or grant of an allowance, at Sellers election. Pile crushing, matting, pilling, shedding, fuzzing, shading, soiling, and watermarking are not defects and will not be considered for claims. Return products shall be shipped to Sellers facility at Buyers expense.
LIMITATION OF LIABILITY
Seller shall not be liable for indirect, special, or consequential damages, under any circumstances, including losses from inability to use the goods, increased operating costs, or loss of production. Seller’s maximum liability shall be limited only to the contracted price of the goods furnished by the Seller.
Buyer shall examine all goods delivered immediately upon Buyers receipt thereof. Failure to give notice of a claim within 15 days after receipt of, cutting, and/or installation of goods shall be considered an unqualified acceptance of said goods.